Zadie Jumpsuits, tattoos, and armpit hair

With summer coming, or rather, with summer here, I’ve been thinking more and more about my armpits. Yes, you read that right. One of the first things I tried to fully embrace over the years is that I am inevitably very hairy. Besides the curls (which apparently also constituted a subject prone to bullying), the… Continue reading Zadie Jumpsuits, tattoos, and armpit hair

Viki Sews Adelina + VBC Covertcoat: all my pants dreams come true

Last summer I started drafting a pants pattern to embody all my Neapolitan style dreams: think inseam pockets, loose but not too loose silhouette, two pleats, cuffed hem, high waist. Blogs such as Die, Workwear! only enabled this obsession, which unfortunately I had to put in the back burner due to having to do other… Continue reading Viki Sews Adelina + VBC Covertcoat: all my pants dreams come true

How to sew a sleeve placket, the easy way (IMHO!).

I’ve been asked several times what my secret for a crips sleeve placket, as this particular part of shirt making is often badly explained and ends up dissuading many people from making shirts altogether. For this reason today I’m sharing with you my own method. I confess it’s been a lot of trial and error… Continue reading How to sew a sleeve placket, the easy way (IMHO!).

#PatternTorture: my take on the Tatjana Trousers

Disclaimer: while I received this pattern for free, opinions are my own. This review is intended as a documentation of my sewing and as a helpful tool for my audience, nothing more. You all know I'm a lover of classic style and pleated pants. So when Delphine of Just Patterns asked...well...months ago to sew a… Continue reading #PatternTorture: my take on the Tatjana Trousers

Attaching a shirt sleeve with 1 pin: myth or reality?

Setting in the sleeves of a shirt is possibly my least favorite sewing task. My problem is not so much the actual setting in, with easing and all that jazz, but rather the felling of the seam: the seam is too curved for the magical felling foot, and very conspicuous. In Neapolitan shirt making it… Continue reading Attaching a shirt sleeve with 1 pin: myth or reality?

The collar: a frame, but for your face!

One of the most challenging aspects of shirt making, in my opinion, is determining which collar shape best suits one's face. I'm not in the business of telling you what you have to do or not, just to show what I believe harmonizes a face...but these are by no means rules! Take it as a… Continue reading The collar: a frame, but for your face!

#TailoringForThem – Part II: The Anatomy of the Suit Jacket

This is part II of a series on Classic Tailoring. Click here for Part I. Last time we discussed the rationale and some resources. Now, you may ask, what makes a suit a suit? Today's post aims to answer exactly this question. Semantically, a suit is a combination of two or more pieces made in… Continue reading #TailoringForThem – Part II: The Anatomy of the Suit Jacket