Threads have directions, who would have thought!

Wonder why when using machine thread to hand sew, it turns weirdly? It’s the twist! So, it turns out that threads come in two flavors: S twist and Z twist Image from Yarnsub. Machine threads are in Z twist, whereas hand sewing threads have a S twist. This convention is born out of the fact… Continue reading Threads have directions, who would have thought!

Linen suit: ready for summer

Finally, it is here: my new linen suit! I got this Irish linen last year with the idea to make this suit and I finally followed through. After 3 versions of this self drafted jacket, I think I have nailed the general shape. This time I opened the quarters slightly more for increased ventilation and… Continue reading Linen suit: ready for summer

How to sew a sleeve placket, the easy way (IMHO!).

I’ve been asked several times what my secret for a crips sleeve placket, as this particular part of shirt making is often badly explained and ends up dissuading many people from making shirts altogether. For this reason today I’m sharing with you my own method. I confess it’s been a lot of trial and error… Continue reading How to sew a sleeve placket, the easy way (IMHO!).

Attaching a shirt sleeve with 1 pin: myth or reality?

Setting in the sleeves of a shirt is possibly my least favorite sewing task. My problem is not so much the actual setting in, with easing and all that jazz, but rather the felling of the seam: the seam is too curved for the magical felling foot, and very conspicuous. In Neapolitan shirt making it… Continue reading Attaching a shirt sleeve with 1 pin: myth or reality?

The collar: a frame, but for your face!

One of the most challenging aspects of shirt making, in my opinion, is determining which collar shape best suits one's face. I'm not in the business of telling you what you have to do or not, just to show what I believe harmonizes a face...but these are by no means rules! Take it as a… Continue reading The collar: a frame, but for your face!

#TailoringForThem – Part I: Rationale and Resources

This is Part I of a series on Classic Tailoring. For Part II, click here. Anybody who knows me or at least follows me on social media is aware I've a passion for classic tailoring which borders on obsession. I'm also non-binary, and while this part of my identity should not matter, it did have… Continue reading #TailoringForThem – Part I: Rationale and Resources