I’ve been asked several times what my secret for a crips sleeve placket, as this particular part of shirt making is often badly explained and ends up dissuading many people from making shirts altogether. For this reason today I’m sharing with you my own method. I confess it’s been a lot of trial and error… Continue reading How to sew a sleeve placket, the easy way (IMHO!).
Disclaimer: while I received this pattern for free, opinions are my own. This review is intended as a documentation of my sewing and as a helpful tool for my audience, nothing more. You all know I'm a lover of classic style and pleated pants. So when Delphine of Just Patterns asked...well...months ago to sew a… Continue reading #PatternTorture: my take on the Tatjana Trousers
Setting in the sleeves of a shirt is possibly my least favorite sewing task. My problem is not so much the actual setting in, with easing and all that jazz, but rather the felling of the seam: the seam is too curved for the magical felling foot, and very conspicuous. In Neapolitan shirt making it… Continue reading Attaching a shirt sleeve with 1 pin: myth or reality?
One of the most challenging aspects of shirt making, in my opinion, is determining which collar shape best suits one's face. I'm not in the business of telling you what you have to do or not, just to show what I believe harmonizes a face...but these are by no means rules! Take it as a… Continue reading The collar: a frame, but for your face!
If you have been following me on Instagram in the last couple of years you may remember that in 2020 I vowed to develop the perfectly fitting shirt block. This turned out to be quite an endeavour since I'm by no means an expert pattern cutter, nor did I receive any formal training. I did… Continue reading Shirtmaking adventures
This is part II of a series on Classic Tailoring. Click here for Part I. Last time we discussed the rationale and some resources. Now, you may ask, what makes a suit a suit? Today's post aims to answer exactly this question. Semantically, a suit is a combination of two or more pieces made in… Continue reading #TailoringForThem – Part II: The Anatomy of the Suit Jacket
This is Part I of a series on Classic Tailoring. For Part II, click here. Anybody who knows me or at least follows me on social media is aware I've a passion for classic tailoring which borders on obsession. I'm also non-binary, and while this part of my identity should not matter, it did have… Continue reading #TailoringForThem – Part I: Rationale and Resources