Finally, it is here: my new linen suit! I got this Irish linen last year with the idea to make this suit and I finally followed through. After 3 versions of this self drafted jacket, I think I have nailed the general shape. This time I opened the quarters slightly more for increased ventilation and… Continue reading Linen suit: ready for summer
It’s almost July and this means one thing in the Boreal hemisphere: heat. This only means one thing: it’s time for summer suitings! This is actually a question I got from my friend Nayila the other day, and I was quite frankly shocked I’ve never done a post before, given that summer here is incredibly… Continue reading Summer Suiting
Last summer I started drafting a pants pattern to embody all my Neapolitan style dreams: think inseam pockets, loose but not too loose silhouette, two pleats, cuffed hem, high waist. Blogs such as Die, Workwear! only enabled this obsession, which unfortunately I had to put in the back burner due to having to do other… Continue reading Viki Sews Adeline + VBC Covertcoat: all my pants dreams come true
I’ve been asked several times what my secret for a crips sleeve placket, as this particular part of shirt making is often badly explained and ends up dissuading many people from making shirts altogether. For this reason today I’m sharing with you my own method. I confess it’s been a lot of trial and error… Continue reading How to sew a sleeve placket, the easy way (IMHO!).
Disclaimer: while I received this pattern for free, opinions are my own. This review is intended as a documentation of my sewing and as a helpful tool for my audience, nothing more. You all know I'm a lover of classic style and pleated pants. So when Delphine of Just Patterns asked...well...months ago to sew a… Continue reading #PatternTorture: my take on the Tatjana Trousers
Setting in the sleeves of a shirt is possibly my least favorite sewing task. My problem is not so much the actual setting in, with easing and all that jazz, but rather the felling of the seam: the seam is too curved for the magical felling foot, and very conspicuous. In Neapolitan shirt making it… Continue reading Attaching a shirt sleeve with 1 pin: myth or reality?
One of the most challenging aspects of shirt making, in my opinion, is determining which collar shape best suits one's face. I'm not in the business of telling you what you have to do or not, just to show what I believe harmonizes a face...but these are by no means rules! Take it as a… Continue reading The collar: a frame, but for your face!
If you have been following me on Instagram in the last couple of years you may remember that in 2020 I vowed to develop the perfectly fitting shirt block. This turned out to be quite an endeavour since I'm by no means an expert pattern cutter, nor did I receive any formal training. I did… Continue reading Shirtmaking adventures
This is part II of a series on Classic Tailoring. Click here for Part I. Last time we discussed the rationale and some resources. Now, you may ask, what makes a suit a suit? Today's post aims to answer exactly this question. Semantically, a suit is a combination of two or more pieces made in… Continue reading #TailoringForThem – Part II: The Anatomy of the Suit Jacket
This is Part I of a series on Classic Tailoring. For Part II, click here. Anybody who knows me or at least follows me on social media is aware I've a passion for classic tailoring which borders on obsession. I'm also non-binary, and while this part of my identity should not matter, it did have… Continue reading #TailoringForThem – Part I: Rationale and Resources